Pee Jay 250 parts guide and layout for assembly

[KevinC]

Here you go!

Pee Jay 250 Beta Kit 3-31-24 Rev 1.pdf

(1.9 MiB) Downloaded 1888 times

[balogh]

Hi, is it absolutely necessary to have the rudder connected to a servo, or, the ailerons and elevator are sufficient? I never use rudder on my small RC planes if ailerons are also installed. I would rather use the 3rd servo for the exhaust throttle barrel of my COX TeeDee 020 engine.

Thank you.

[KevinC]

Rudder really isn't necessary, according to Doug (Mr. WillyNillies). Much like the GLH and the new Spee-Dee Sport, the P-Jay is designed to be a speed demon. Although you CAN set it up with rudder control if you wish, aileron/elevator are enough for this type of speedster. I had originally intended to set mine up with an active rudder but have since decided against it.

[balogh]

Thank you for your fast reply.

A few more questions if I may:

1. which of the 4 airfoil options would you recommend for a fast, well maneauverable plane?

2. Does ít make sense to build the bottom hatch instead of fixed sheeting, if the top hatch gives access to servos, battery and external fuel tank?


3. Any experience with COX TeeDee020 power? Or the plane is most often used on electric power?


4. If the wing is to be covered after installation in the fuselage, is the center wing section wide enough to protrude beyond the fuse wall and offer a horizontal"tab" along the wing center where the oracover or similar film is attached? Sorry but I just ordered the plane and have the dimensionless drawing here so I cannot make exact measurements.

Thanks for your advice.

[KevinC]

Ok, here you go:
1. Flat airfoil is the fastest. Top airfoil/flat bottom is slightly less fast. Fully symmetrical wing is least fast (but still fast by design.)
2. Yes, bottom hatch. That is how I'm building mine.
3. This plane is designed for electric power. Putting a glow engine will probably require some fuselage modification.
4. Yes, the wing is covered after installation. Important note: if you are going to use any configuration except the completely flat wing, the airfoil arches should be installed AFTER installing the flat wing into the fuselage. And yes, there is enough of a "tab" to attach covering at the wing root, regardless of which wing configuration you choose.

One other important suggestion: I highly recommend cutting out the fuselage side covering before you do ANY construction. Since the fuselage side covering is installed after the wing is in place, it is more difficult to get the cutout for the wing root just right to avoid gaps in the covering OR having to cut a slit in the covering ahead of or behind the wing root. I found this out the hard way but fortunately I had a second kit where I could use the parts to form the fully symmetrical wing root and cut my fuselage side covering for an exact fit.
Final thought: if you go fully electric, the battery space in the nose is tight. Check your battery fit before starting to cover. I had to do some minor modification so that my chosen battery would fit. If you use a glow engine, that is where your fuel tank will go so, same recommendation.

[balogh]

Thanks for your detailed answers, which will be duly followed when building this plane.

My question related to the hatch was about the need to build both, or one is enough. I think the top hatch provides sufficient access to the internal components, and the 2nd hatch, added instead of a solid sheeting, would only reduce the lateral strength of the fuselage. Do you agree? Does the hatch lip have a nut to lock the hatch, or, just a piece of Skotch tape is added as on one if the photos?

[KevinC]

I am putting a hatch on the bottom in addition to the canopy hatch. My bottom hatch will be held in place by a small screw because I don't anticipate needing to open it very often. My canopy hatch is secured by magnet. I do not think the bottom hatch weakens the fuselage. Hopefully I am not mistaken in thinking that.

[balogh]

Magnet is a great idea, thanks.